May 22, 2011

Route Selection

Route selection...think of it as if you were choosing what combination of roads to take on an epic roadtrip.  That is the gist of what we are doing.

This is a huge ordeal, for it will allow us to understand the gear we will need to bring, what type of training we need to do (aiding, pendulums, nailing, etc.)  So, here is where we stand so far...


El Capitan Routes
- The Nose, El Capitan, 15 min approach, 5 days, 31 pitches, 5.14a or 5.9 C2
- Muir Wall, El Capitan, 15 min approach, 5 days, 33 pitches, A2 5.9
- North American Wall, El Capitan, 30 min approach, 5 days, 27 pitches, A2 5.8
- Zodiac, El Capitan, 45 min approach, 4 days, 16 pitches, A2 5.7
- The Shield, El Capitan, 10 min approach, 6 days, 33 pitches, A3 5.8
- *** Salathe Wall, El Capitan, 10 min approach, 4 days, 35 pitches, 5.13b or 5.9 C2 ***
- *** Free Rider, El Capitan, 10 min approach, 4 days, 35 pitches, 5.12d ***
The starred routes are the more likely candidates. Free Rider is a variation of the typical Salathe Wall, so the bulk of it with either route will be the same.

Prep in Yosemite
http://www.supertopo.com/bigwalls/yosemite/bigwalls.html#routelist
- Lost Arrow Spire Direct, Lost Arrow Spire, 3 hr approach, 1-2 days, 10 pitches, 5.8 C2
- South Face, Washington Column, 1.5 hr approach, 2 days, 9 pitches, 5.8 C1, typically a starter route in Yosemite
- The Prow, Washington Column, 1.5 hr approach, 3 days, 12 pitches, 5.6 C2F, not sure what the F stands for, which may or may not be a good thing, eh?
Prep in Zion
http://www.supertopo.com/packs/zion-climbing.html?s=route&o=ASC&v=&ftr=&cur=0#list
- Iron Messiah, The Spearhead, III/IV, 15 min approach, 3 to 5 hours, 6 pitches, 5.10
- Moonlight Buttress, Moonlight Buttress Area, IV, 1 day, 9 pitches, 5.12+ or 5.9 C1
- Spaceshot, Leaning Wall, IV, 2 days, 9 pitches, 5.13 or 5.6 C2

All told there is not a shortage of climbing to do, but rather a shortage of time we will be able to invest in this.

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